PATTERN INSPIRATION | WOMENSWEAR AW15
Left to Right: Marc Jacobs, Giamba, Ashish
The AW15 womenswear was hotly anticipated and did not disappoint. The resounding reference for this season was the sixties and seventies, with influences in cut, colour and print as well as styling and the way that garments were layered for the winter months. Fabrics were sumptuous with thick rolling knitwear and disco ready shimmers, and hemlines were often flared.
Prints were decidedly geometric: with classic bold stripes at House of Holand and Sibling, and tiling blocks at Opening Ceremony and Acne Studios. Off-kilter shapes adorned both Loewe and Lacoste garments, as well as jagged zags at Gucci and Christopher Kane.
As is custom, PATTERNITY have kept our eye out for the prominent trends in pattern material and form for this latest season…
BULKY FUR LUXURY
From the first shows in New York to the final shows in Paris, furry fabrics were everywhere. Most key designers had incorporated fuzzy fabrics into their collections making it an absolutely key texture for the coming season. Many opted for classic shapes: Gucci, Whistles and Sportmax were among many who chose the classic brown shades for their luxurious outerwear. Many labels applied fur in more unusual fashions (above), by mixing colour and texture using patchwork-like constructions that were seen elsewhere on the catwalks – such as the mixed animal furs at Ashish and MGSM and the brightly autumnal coloured ripples at Giamba.
Left to Right: Chalayan, Christian Dior, Sportmax
Embellishment was a key trend this season, with many designers incorporating jewels and trinkets or structural additions to their designs. Diamonds of another form also found their way onto many designs: in lesser-used diamond lattice print formations. The repetition was used to bold effect in many collections, with Oscar De La Renta and Jil Sander creating sensible yet striking graphics for their pieces. Jonathan Saunders and Vivetta’s diamonds were more stylised through colour, adding to the seventies feel of many of the collections.
Left to Right: Jil Sander, Tod’s, Oscar De La Renta
Amongst the graphic geometry, several more organic designs stood out. The watery, almost photographic prints used in Carolina Herrera’s collection were beautifully applied to sheer fabrics, giving a wholly fluid feel to the garments on the catwalk. Giorgio Armani’s blue hues and Christopher Kane’s scribbled and sheer waves were equally as delicate. Elsewhere, Kenzo opted for almost psychedelic shapes in their prints, where Missoni’s signature stripes seemed to have been under the influence of moire interference.
Left to Right: Missoni, Carolina Herrera, Giorgio Armani
Several designers incorporated bandage like construction into their collections. Emillo Pucci’s girl was almost mummified in tight claret strips and Proenza Schouler’s pieces offered the same slitted structure. Diane von Furstenberg created a similar effect through her knits where Christopher Kane’s top showed a bold contrast of electric blue and black that felt decidedly punk, like many of the collections for AW15.
From Left to Right: Christopher Kane, Proenza Schouler, Emillio Pucci
Floral dresses dominated the catwalk this season. The rose held particular prominence, with Sarah Burton citing the decaying plant as the starting point for her Alexander McQueen collection. Similarity could be found between the McQueen designs and those at Holly Fulton and Vivienne Westwood – all applying beautiful flower motifs to striking black backgrounds. Dolce and Gabanna – no strangers to floral representations – also employed the rose repeat, where Stella McCartney and Leonard opted for floppier flowers, with equally striking presence.
Left to Right: Holly Fulton, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood
Sixties Op-Art was reborn on the catwalk in the form of dazzling monochrome prints. Valentino’s mixture of triangles, stripes and squares was quite disarming when applied to their feminine shapes. Roland Mouret created designs that were reminiscent of a desaturated Mexican serape and Emillo Pucci, Protagonist and Jonathan Simkhai employed layers of shapes in reversed and blocked out black and white for the full illusionary effect.
Left to Right: Emillio Pucci, Valentino, Protagonist
Following on from the SS15 collage trend, this season saw cut-outs that were more reflective of abstract landscapes and natural forms. Roksanda interpreted her contours in the furry trend as well as knits , where Christian Dior and Jaquemus pieced together fabrics; much like Dora Abodi and Iceberg, who chose to collage rich rainbow hues together.
Left to Right: Roksanda, Christian Dior, Jaquemus
Seventies hues were dominating the palettes, matched with retro-inspired geometric patterns. Brown featured heavily, particularly in the Milanese collections: Fendi and Gucci both offered blocky muddy patterns. Sonya Rykiel and Salvatore Ferragamo’s brown repeats were more shard-like and both Chloe and Etro offered hippyish patch-worked pieces.
Left to Right: Gucci, Sonya Rykiel, Fendi
Animal prints are rarely far from the catwalk, and were seen in several guises this season. Many designers chose to add modern spins to their animal prints, with Céline and Prabal Gurung choosing more stylised interpretations where Erdem, Christian Siriano and Burberry Prorsum created striking constructions for their animal-inspired outerwear. Both Miu Miu and MaxMara opted for baby blue feline spots, for an unexpected twist.
Left to Right: Céline, Miu Miu, Issa
The geometric trend was applied on smaller scales in various collections for AW15. Issey Miyake employed small repeats to a textural effect, and Bottega Veneta used similarly contrasting colours and scales in their dotty ensembles. Prada created a strikingly modern print referencing watery droplets, Kenzo chose micro ripples and Carven chose scales. BCBG Max Azaria layered several of the micro patterns for a more boho feel.
Left to Right: Bottega Veneta, BCBG Max Azaria, Issey Miyake