Pattern insight + emergence

Delving beneath the surface of life at Patternity Studio



Looking ahead to SS15, New York, London, Milan and Paris offered us patterned fashion across the board. From pleating and gathered shapes creating structural pattern in many collections, to daring prints inspired by wildcats at Giles, or repeats inspired by ancient history at Versace and KTZ.

Many of the print trends reflected those seen in the Menswear: stripes galore and patchwork colour, but much fun was had with form in the womenswear with Seventies shapes and asymmetric cuts providing new shapes, as well as playful textiles of fluffy fur and rippling iridescent fabrics.

PATTERNITY have collected the best patterned picks of SS15….



Delicate organic ripples adorned many pieces, adding movement and texture amongst more structured counterparts. Rodarte and Mary Katrantzou edged floaty ruffles in piercing black, where Zadig + Voltaire and Christopher Kane added curling structure to skirts and bodices. Issa and Antonio Marras finished their offerings with wiggling prints.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS(Rodarte, Issa, Mary Katrantzou)



Kenzo, Iceberg and Chanel explored abstract, arty and somewhat psychedelic prints of pink and purple – sweeping blotches across swathes of fabric for modern, feminine results.

(Kenzo, Iceberg, Chanel)



The bow hit the big-time this season, with many designers from Roland Mouret to Jean-Pierre Braganza opting for tied waists –ruching textiles adding 3-D sculptural parts to garments. Sportmax and JW Anderson tied thick leathers, where Burberry Prorsum and Daks played with lighter, more floaty fabric to add cinched middles.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS3(JW Anderson, Burberry Prorsum, Sportmax)



Oversized black and grey checks graced the catwalk in several collections. Oscar De La Renta and Rachel Zoe opted for simple tailored pieces, but Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood and Sportmax applied the square-repeat to shapes with more movement and drape to create contrast.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS4(Issey Miyake, Vivienne Westwood, Sportmax)



Many fashion houses were clearly inspired by twentieth century art this season, more specifically Matisse, after the blockbuster exhibition at the Tate this year. Novis offered the most literal interpretation, with a grid of collaged colour, where Jasper Conran and Jonathan Saunders applied cut-outs more loosely to their pieces. Elsewhere, Sibling, Libertine and Lulu and Co. showed monochrome prints reminiscent of Miró‘s doodles, and designers including Roksanda Ilincic and Peter Pilotto gave us colour-block collaged pieces of saturated hues. Perhaps the most arty collection this season, and a definite PATTERNITY favourite, was from Junya Watanabe: who showed wacky sculptural garments and monochrome repeats.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS_art(Jasper Conran, Novis, Junya Watanbe)



Timeless black polka dots adorned more modern silhouettes at varying scales for SS15. Tod’s top looked almost as if googly eyes were peeking out at us, and Marc by Marc Jacobs used the dots across the collection on thick plastics and folded fabrics.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS6(Tod’s, Leila Rose, Marc by Marc Jacobs)



Horizontal stripes were popular in the Men’s SS15 collections, and were seen in the womenswear too. Roberto Cavalli, Fyodor Golan and Dries Van Noten mixed rainbow hues together with bright, playful results. Temperley, Jasper Conran and DKNY created pieces more reminiscent of beachwear, in warm sunny colours and casual shapes, sure to be popular over the summer.

PATTERNITY_SS15_SELECTS7(Temperley London, DKNY, Jasper Conran)



PATTERNITY are often drawn to things inspired by the everyday, and several collections caught our eye – reminiscent of the architecture that surrounds us. Rick Owens pieces reminded us of Brutalist concrete shapes, where Hugo Boss, Leila Rose and Jean-Pierre Braganza’s collections showed more modern lines, sparking ideas of futuristic towering glass structures.


All images from vogue.co.uk

PATTERNITY RESEARCH and EXPLORE are available for consultancy and research projects, utilising our extensive pattern archives and first hand bespoke PATTERN HUNTS. For more information contact research@patternity.org