Pattern insight + emergence

Delving beneath the surface of life at Patternity Studio



The Autumn/Winter offerings for Menswear shown over the past few weeks were decidedly fitting for the season, with autumnal colour palettes of ochres, purples and greys alongside heavy wools and sturdy outerwear.

Many designs seemed inspired by the idea of Utility, with designers such as Christopher Raeburn and Dries Van Noten putting together technical ensembles incorporating hi-vis stripes and waterproof fabrics. Astrid Anderson and Maharishi’s offerings were more militaristic, with camouflage and berets included in their almost anarchist designs.

Scores of designers included leathery, glossy fabrics ranging from slouchy bombers at Nasir Mazhar and Agi + Sam to high gloss macs and slacks at Calvin Klein, using modern textiles to update classic shapes.

Here PATTERNITY Explore picks out the best patterns for Menswear AW15…


Following the utilitarian, sporty theme, Moschino and Kenzo – alongside Casely Hayford – paired bright orange with darker block detailing to create work-like outerwear. Christopher Raeburn’s carrot interpretations of fishing gear accompanied his oceanic themed collection of puffa jackets and knitwear…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_1(Christopher Raeburn, Moschino, Kenzo)



There weren’t many bold prints this season for the men, but Walter Van Beirendonck and Kolor showed South American inspired prints in earthy natural tones, alongside Versace’s monochrome counterpart and Yong Hwan Yang’s Totemic adornments, placing the print inspiration for 2015 firmly tribal…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_17(Walter Van Beirendonck, Versace, Kolor)



Subtle colour block variations were used by Paul Smith and JW Anderson on their heavy long coats, creating smart but visually playful options. Valentino’s coat was bolder with it’s colour transitions and reminiscent of the city shapes the wearer might come across…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_16(Valentino, JW Anderson, Paul Smith)



Camouflage made an appearance in Maharishi’s youthful collection, with Antoni Marras using a similar motif. Valentino’s camo parker was surprisingly refined but solidified the print as a staple this season…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_15(Valentino, Maharishi, Antonio Marras)



It would be a rare season to not find checks of some sort in the Menswear. This time, they’ve been enlarged and brought to life in a tartan like way, here with mustard tones. Shaun Samson ventured into more of a lumberjack territory, where Topman and Dior’s offerings where much more sartorial and seventies…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_14(Shaun Samson, Dior Homme, Topman Design)



Knitwear this season saw bold motifs added, focusing less on regular repeats. Emporio Armarni’s graphic monochrome zig zags were a treat, and Corneliani’s branching tree created a similar impact to the looping rope design seen at Louis Vuitton. James Long and Kit Neale’s shapes were more organic and psychedelic, yet still rooted in the autumnal colours seen throughout the collections, where Neil Barrett opted for comic like shapes…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_13(James Long, Corneliani, Kit Neale)



Finally, PATTERNITY noticed several examples of banded gradients in knit and weave, giving a softer version of the stripe. Casely Hayford and John Varvatos drifted in and out of greys, where Hardy Aimes and Topman Design created almost landscape like effects with the colour changes in their ombres…

PATTERNITY_AW15 mens_SELECTS_12(Casely Hayford, Hardy Aimes, Topman Design)


All images from vogue.co.uk

PATTERNITY Research and Explore are available for consultancy and research projects, utilising our extensive pattern archives and first hand bespoke PATTERN HUNTS. For more information contact research@patternity.org