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Pattern insight + emergence

Delving beneath the surface of life at Patternity Studio

FASHION

Dancers have been captured in Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please garments by photographer Francis Giacobetti, who says Miyake’s creation are ‘an invitation to dance’. Fluid and structured forms combine to bring the innovative designs to life…

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The shapes of the city are often translated into printed and surface elements of fashion garments, such as Fendi’s AW15 collection or even PATTERNITY’s very own Chinti + Parker collaboration. Graduate designer Yuri Pardi’s ‘Monument’ collection has taken this one step further by creating pieces that take on the forms of the city, referencing the sculptural geometry of buildings…

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Textile designs were transformed into sweet treats when multi-disciplinary designers Studiolav translated Haizhen Wang’s collection into biscuits. Simple stamping techniques were used to transfer the patterns from fabric to dough…

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Dior Cruise 16 presentation at the Bubble Palace or Palais Bulles. The futuristic Palace designed by Antti Lovag and built between 1975 and 89, was famously home to Pierre Cardin who previously worked at Dior.

After the buzz and furore of the AW15 Fashion shows, some designers leave a lasting impression. Anrealage’s presentation in Paris was an intriguing show of light and dark, with the designer employing a spotlight motif in many of his futuristic garments. This was explored in the physical show too, with searching lights crawling over the designs, revealing their forms and patterns. Anrealage is known for his innovative exploration of fabric and pattern, and this show was no exception, allowing the viewers to examine on the graphic patterns and intriguing materials of the latest pieces. The presentation is a must watch…

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The AW15 womenswear was hotly anticipated and did not disappoint. The resounding reference for this season was the sixties and seventies, with influences in cut, colour and print as well as styling and the way that garments were layered for the winter months. Fabrics were sumptuous with thick rolling knitwear and disco ready shimmers, and hemlines were often flared.

Prints were decidedly geometric: with classic bold stripes at House of Holand and Sibling, and tiling blocks at Opening Ceremony and Acne Studios. Off-kilter shapes adorned both Loewe and Lacoste garments, as well as jagged zags at Gucci and Christopher Kane.

As is custom, PATTERNITY have kept our eye out for the prominent trends in pattern material and form for this latest season…

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German photographer Andrea Grützner captured women partaking in Tanztee’s, or Tea Dances. Grützner focused on the bright and clashing patterns worn by the ladies, and captured the similarity of their chosen outfits – the jewellery, the watches.

The close crops on the fabrics hint at the personalities of the dancers and gives us an intimate view of this traditional pastime…

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The Autumn/Winter offerings for Menswear shown over the past few weeks were decidedly fitting for the season, with autumnal colour palettes of ochres, purples and greys alongside heavy wools and sturdy outerwear.

Many designs seemed inspired by the idea of Utility, with designers such as Christopher Raeburn and Dries Van Noten putting together technical ensembles incorporating hi-vis stripes and waterproof fabrics. Astrid Anderson and Maharishi’s offerings were more militaristic, with camouflage and berets included in their almost anarchist designs.

Scores of designers included leathery, glossy fabrics ranging from slouchy bombers at Nasir Mazhar and Agi + Sam to high gloss macs and slacks at Calvin Klein, using modern textiles to update classic shapes.

Here PATTERNITY Explore picks out the best patterns for Menswear AW15…

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